Pleating

Pleating involves folding a piece of material back on itself and making it stay in place. Naturally, many variations of this technique can be found.

Knife Pleats Most commonly found at the top of skirts. They create a flat line for gathering purposes rather than fanning the material out .They have a 3:1 ratio

Box Pleats. This type of pleat requires 2 top folds and 2 under folds to create the 'box'. It creates more volume in a garment and is used to create a triangular shape to a skirt.

Dior

Inverted Pleats. Inverted pleats contain two fold lines and one positioning line. The other folds face eachother and the inside folds face away.

Lanvin SS 11

Partial Pleats. These pleats can be recognised as a pleat that opens below the surface of the fabric and the underfold sections are let free. 

Projecting Pleats: Projecting pleats are folded material which stand out from the surface. They are mostly used to create pattern, volume and texture rather than to create shape.

Accordion Pleats. These even but tightly spaced, small scale pleats are designed to create expansion in a garment with movement. They work best on lengthier pieces so that that full effect can be seen.

Wrinkled Pleats: Wrinkle pleating is created by bunching up damp fabric and leaving to dry. Wrinkled pleats can take of many forms as the fabric can be allowed to dry around shaped objects. A cylindrical broomstick for example can be used to create a rounded pleat, or sometimes the material is wrapped around a rope and coiled to create other types of pleat.